In 2018, Melissa and I took a trip to Japan that was life changing. That feels cliché to say, write or think but it’s true. Mostly because from the second we returned to North America we were making plans to go back. The country, including Tokyo Disney Resort, became a place we raved about. Our friend Shelby, who joined us on this 2023 trip along with her husband Ben, had to sit through hour long slideshows of our photos. We were those people that probably talked about one topic too much if it was brought up and that topic was going back to Japan. We probably talk about theme parks too much, as well, but we can wade through that issue another day.

In the midst of all our raving, we planned a long trip back to Japan. Time off work was approved, plans to live like a local were made and roughly 2 months was set aside to have a trip of a lifetime. Unfortunately, that was planned for late 2020 and was thwarted. We were planning to visit a few of our favorite spots from the previous trip as well as gems we hadn’t seen before like Miyajima Island, Himeji Castle, Kobe, Nara and Hiroshima.

Cut to this year, 2023. Quite a bit has changed! We moved to California from Washington. Some friendships have evolved, some have devolved. I’ve started approximately 17 different series on this site, 13 of which I’m sure I forgot to finish. Like everyone who lived through the pandemic, there’s been good and bad. The highs of getting to go see the world, friends and family again. The lows of loneliness and losing people.

‘Peace on Earth’ is a phrase that comes up a lot this time of year. The last few years have been a search for peace and balance. Balancing those highs and lows, finding peace with where we’re at. That’s not to say I’ve been especially successful in that search, but that’s the goal.

After life calmed down a little bit, we booked a trip to Japan where we’d meet our aforementioned friends from New Zealand. It wasn’t the 2 month excursion we had previously hoped for but we planned to hit a lot of highlights in the 2 week trip.

The previous week, we were in the Seattle area for Thanksgiving with family. We flew from there to Tokyo and then, after a minor hiccup, took a shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima. It was a long travel day. That said, Japan Airlines was great and I’d happily fly with them again. And you all know I’m here for a good train ride, even if it was in the dark.

We met our friends in Hiroshima around midnight and trudged our way to our Airbnb that was a very quick walk away from Peace Memorial Museum. Starting the trip with Hiroshima was very purposeful, knowing we wanted to see the city but also knowing that it would be the heaviest day from an emotional standpoint. The apartment we rented was a very short walk away from the museum and park, where we planned to spend most of the next day. As for that long travel day, we were tired and ready to go to sleep.

We slept in a little bit and then went and grabbed some bagels from this shop below our Airbnb. They weren’t just ordinary bagels, they were stuffed! I had a Matcha White Chocolate Bagel and really enjoyed it. We tried to go back later but they were sold out of nearly everything.

We made the five minute walk from there to Peace Memorial Park and decided to do the museum at that point. Seeing the UNESCO World Heritage site was always of interest to me; one of those places that’s important to visit if you get the chance. The word ‘important’ gets thrown around too often, whether that’s about entertainment or places but Hiroshima fits the bill. I wasn’t sure of what to expect from both the park and museum but came away in awe of the thoughtfulness.

Hiroshima and it’s people could be spiteful and bitter. By all means, it should be a ghost town. Instead, the city took the horrific event that happened on August 6th, 1945 and use it as a rallying cry for peace. There’s little sign of blame that we found in that city, instead it felt like a mix of haunting and hopeful.

As for the museum specifically, they presented the facts of what happened without a slight while also giving the emotional side of the story. Real clothing that people wore during the bombing or letters that people wrote in subsequent days were on display. There’s a smart blend of photography and artwork throughout the museum.

We entered the museum around the same time a few school groups did. Those kids were so well behaved and respectful. I was impressed by that and also struck by how heartbreaking it was, as these kids observed a museum dedicated to those that came before them. Near the end of the main floor of the museum, there was a letter that a mother had written about looking for her child. The Japanese people are generally conservative in their reactions to things but I’ll never forget reading the letter (me reading the English translation) alongside an older woman who was sobbing by the end.

I don’t write any of this to scare anyone away from visiting the Peace Memorial Museum. On the contrary, I found it enlightening. To someone who grew up in the US school system, these events were pages in a textbook until you reach adulthood and start to understand more. It’s an incredibly somber experience showing an enormously complicated time in human history. But the museum was so well put together, without having an agenda other than urging the world to never let this happen again.

Needing a little bit of a break, we went out for lunch after the museum. Okonomiyaki is a street food from this region of Japan and we wanted to try it. After walking around a few streets and abruptly opening and closing a door of one small restaurant with a chef who wasn’t thrilled to see us, we found a spot and sat down for a delicious lunch. A $5 lunch at that!

Okonomiyaki is a teppanyaki, savory pancake dish (thanks Wikipedia!) with various toppings. This one included cabbage, noodles and more. The lady running this tiny restaurant had clearly been doing this a while as we watched her work. Loyal customers would step in right as she was wrapping their food up to take away. The punctuality was top notch, as was the actual food itself! I’m making myself hungry looking at it right now.

After lunch, we grabbed dessert and a hot drink then decided to walk the 20 or so minutes to Hiroshima Castle. There weren’t any other planned castle stops on our trip and this one was pretty convenient to see.

From the castles I’ve seen in Japan, they are far more fortress than they are palace. Of course, the Hiroshima Castle was rebuilt but was originally constructed in the late 1500’s. Before the original was destroyed in the bombing, it was used in times of war as a headquarters. As you can see, there’s a beautiful wood tone to this particular castle inspired by the original. The grounds were quite pretty, as well.

I can’t say that the castle was a highlight of the trip but if you’re spending a whole day in the area, like we were, then I’d recommend taking an hour to check it out. It’s beautiful and a pleasant walk.

After stopping at a few stores, the rest of daylight was spent in Peace Memorial Park. There are a number of memorials throughout and the A Dome at one far side. It is a sight. I walked around, looking at most, if not all, of the memorials before circling back around to take photos at sunset.

Following the atomic bomb being dropped, there were constant cries for water. People swarmed the Otagawa River to ease their burns and try to quench their thirst. At every memorial, along with flowers, there are bottles of water left.

Here are a few more photos from the park.

The flame in the photo above is meant to be lit until there are no more nuclear weapons in the world.

The sunset that night was beautiful and I lingered along the river with the Atomic Bomb Dome as the focal point. That building, or the remains of it, is magnetizing. Seeing how part of it stood while being so close to the blast is astounding. There’s a mix of emotions while viewing it, knowing that it’s the only thing left standing from that day. Seeing it last while 140,000 humans perished. Then seeing how it still stands while the city builds itself back up.

The contrast between the A-Bomb Dome and the city’s newer skyscrapers is stark. But it also feels like a bit of a miracle. That there was a resolve to rebuild the city and see it begin to thrive again after what happened there less than 80 years ago is a testament to the people who live there. Like the museum and park, locals using this area as a symbol for peace and not spite is noble. Knowing that you’re walking on a graveyard while also seeing how the city has rebuilt is as contrasting as Hiroshima’s skyline. I don’t know how those emotions could ever be balanced, there’s too much devastation. But they’re doing their best.

We walked back to the Airbnb after the sun had gone down and ended up at this cute little Italian place called Ristorante Mario. We shared a bottle of wine and had a nice meal. Considering the weight of the day, it hadn’t really registered that we were with some of our best friends that live across the globe. But we laughed and caught up at dinner and it sunk in there.

We ended the night by the river, taking one more look at the A-Bomb Dome. I don’t know if I’ll return to Hiroshima. There’s plenty that we didn’t get a chance to see that I’d like to but what we did that day isn’t something I’d like to repeat every trip. That said, I’m so glad we experienced it. Hiroshima will be a city I’ll never forget and would recommend to anyone.

The next morning we were up early, checked out of our Airbnb and on our way to Miyajima Island. Getting there from Hiroshima was relatively easy, just a train and ferry ride away. Both of those rides were included on our JR Pass. Seeing how we’re 2,000 words into this post, I’ll save my thoughts on the value of the JR Pass with the price increase for a different installment. We found lockers for our luggage at the Miyajima Station before getting on the boat. It was all relatively easy!

Like Hiroshima, Miyajima Island has been on my list of places to visit for years. Itsukushima Shrine (the floating torii gate that Epcot’s model is based on) resides here as well as a few other points of interest. After finishing the short boat ride we were met by some new friends.

There were a good amount of deer throughout the island. Not to the same level that Nara offers but we saw at least 30 on the day. They were not shy and would come up quite close to people.

We arrived near high tide so the torii gate was in the water, looking majestic. If you get the chance to go to Miyajima Island, you should try to make a point of being there for both high tide and low tide. Itsukushima Shrine isn’t just the floating gate but also includes a structure above the water connected to the shore so you can walk out there. We paid the nominal fee and enjoyed walking around. It was pretty crowded but the different views and shrines within the shrine were well worth seeing. Here are some photos from being out there.

From there, we walked alongside the water for a bit and then found some lunch. The lunch was fine but the real winner for food and drink that morning was Miyajima Coffee which is inside the market-like portion of the island. Great coffee and a cute place to sit and relax!

After lunch we headed to the Miyajima Ropeway, a gondola that took us up Mt. Misen. The walk to the Ropeway was lovely, going from shops and restaurants to a park before reaching the destination. Being the end of November, the island had some vibrant colors be it green like in the photo above or the autumn leaves that we’d see while dangling in the air in a piece of metal hanging on a line. Halfway joking aside, the Miyajima Ropeway felt safe and didn’t sway much even for me who is afraid of heights.

Once up the mountain, there was a beautiful lookout at the other side of the island and all that surrounds it. The ride on the Ropeway is worth the price alone (less than $10 USD for a one way ticket) but this view definitely adds to the value.

After taking in the sights for a few minutes we made the questionable decision to hike down the mountain to a temple, Daisho-in. The hike took about an hour and was a little more treacherous than we had planned for. There was nothing dangerous about it, just a reminder that we’re a little older than we used to be and our calf muscles were not prepared. At least it was mostly downhill! It was a pretty hike though and we were met by friends that weren’t deer.

These Rakan statues were near the summit of Mt. Misen and there were hundreds more at the temple, most of them wearing red hats. The one with the microphone above had to be a little more unique though. Lead singers and their egos.

Here’s a few of the different paths we took down the mountain.

We finally reached the temple gates with the whole area abounding in fall colors. It was our first true sight of the trip where there was red and orange all over and a bit of foreshadowing of what was to come.

The grounds of this Buddhist temple were free to enter and beautifully built into the hillside. There were a number of different statues including more Rakan, most of which were carved around 1800.

There was also a wonderful cave and room full of beautiful lamps.

I highly recommend Daisho-in! If you only had a day at Miyajima Island, I would probably skip the hike down Mt. Misen as the temple is easily accessible from Itsukushima Shrine. If hiking’s your thing then go for it, this just took up a little more of our time than we bargained for.

After the temple, we grabbed a drink and snack and rested for a short while. We were nearing low tide so I was itching to get out to the gate and take some photos. The others met me later, as they did some shopping in the market area.

We weren’t necessarily going at a breakneck speed these first two days, there was plenty of time to process things as we saw them. But getting down by the floating torii gate was the first time it really sunk in that we were actually there. Being right beneath the shrine and actually getting to touch it made me emotional.

Not only is the gate powerful and historic (a version of this has been around since the 1100’s) but it’s beautiful and attainable. In the United States at least, we’re not used to being able to go and put our hands on things that are of great cultural significance. Usually they’re roped off and we can observe from a short distance. Honestly, it’s for good reason. But getting to walk right up to this and touch it was a wonderful moment. Especially once I was joined by my wife and friends.

I was swept up in what it took to get there all while actually being there. Swept up in the devastation of what we’d seen the previous day against the historic and majestic torii gate above me. Balance. That’s part of the reason we travel, to step back and find perspective. Somewhere in between those contrasts and under the iconic shrine, I felt peace.

The rest of the night was spent eating ramen and getting to Kyoto, which is where we’ll pick up in our next installment. While this post didn’t have to do with Tokyo Disney Resort, we’ll get there soon and if you’re planning a trip there then check out our guide! If you enjoy what you’re reading please subscribe to the blog and like our social media pages which you can find on the right side of this page. Thank you for reading, we really appreciate it!